Not only is our skin the window to our soul, but also our largest organ. In adults, it covers around 1.8m2 and weighs up to 14kg. Every square centimeter of our skin features about 600,000 cells, 4 meters of nerve tracts, 15 sebum glands and 5 hairs.
During summer, our skin cools us down, while in winter, it keeps us a little warmer. Through our skin, we experience touch, protect ourselves from injuries or reveal something about our origins.
This may be why as early as 1967, the zoologist Desmond Morris declared flawless skin to be the “most longed-for human characteristic in the world”. He underlined his claim that humans had to “advertise” their health with a clear, even and radiant complexion.
Even today, most people long for these same attributes when it comes to their skin.
However, as we age, we find it harder to maintain these traits. Skin aging is a complex biological process that has not yet been fully researched. However, a distinction is made between two essential factors: extrinsic and intrinsic aging.
With extrinsic aging, external influences such as UV radiation, environmental pollution, but also nicotine consumption lead to premature skin aging.
It is estimated that these influences are responsible for up to 80% of the visible signs of skin aging. This type of aging can result in hyperpigmentation (i.e. age or sun spots), loss of radiance, wrinkles and reduced elasticity.
Intrinsic aging includes genetic predisposition, hormonal balance, general health and stress levels.
It is said to only account for around 20% of skin aging. Intrinsic aging includes thinning skin, fine lines, and wrinkles.
What does skin aging look like, how does it come about and what can we do to support our skin?
The skin loses moisture:
It is mostly the hyaluronic acid molecule that is involved in this process, as it is part of the extracellular matrix and binds large amounts of moisture in the skin. With increasing age, the hyaluronic acid levels in the epidermis decrease, so our skin loses hydration, making it drier. The result is a paler, more uneven complexion.
Hyaluronic acid can be applied topically to counteract moisture loss.
The skin loses radiance:
Radiance is created by the fact that light is reflected from a smooth skin surface. Our epidermis is constantly renewing itself. That is, cells die and new ones come after. With age, the rate of new cell formation slows down. In young adults, complete renewal of the epidermis takes an average of 28 days. In later stages of life, the skin renewal cycle is 40 to 60 days. As a result, more dead skin cells are deposited on the horny layer (stratum corneum) and create the appearance of rough, dry skin that reflects light poorly.
The loss of radiance can therefore be counteracted with different means:
- Improving communication between cells: e.g. by applying certain types of hyaluronic acid, because the hyaluronic acid molecule takes on an important function in cell renewal.
- Stimulating the regenerative properties of the skin, e.g. through natural lipids, minerals and vitamins.
- Smoothing the surface of the skin: Removing dead skin cells and improving blood circulation, e.g. through a mechanical peeling.
Fine lines and wrinkles form on skin:
our skin changes structurally. The epidermis becomes thinner (approx. -6% per decade), the dermis no longer produces as much collagen and hyaluronic acid, the fiber structure also becomes weaker and the volume of the subcutaneous tissue decreases. The consequences are “sunken” skin, but also a loss of elasticity. To counteract fine lines and wrinkles, it is advisable to support areas related collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin levels:
- Collagen: Collagen is a protein and building block of connective tissue. Since the body’s own production of collagen decreases, it is advisable to either add collagen to the skin externally or to stimulate the skin to produce it again. This can be done with different active ingredients, e.g. brown algae or AHA peelings.
- Hyaluronic acid: the production of hyaluronic acid also decreases every year and the enzymatic breakdown has to be compensated for by adding new one. Used regularly over several months, products with low molecular hyaluronic acid can help replenish the skin’s moisture depots and “plump” skin from the inside.
- Elastin: the protein elastin is produced in the skin before we are born. The cosmetic industry has not yet been able to recreate this important skin component. It is said that highly concentrated retinol, a vitamin A derivative, can stimulate the elastin production in the skin. However, this active has been under scrutiny for some time, as it can cause irritations.
Skin needs more time to regenerate
With increasing age, our skin’s regenerative abilities decrease. This is due to the fact that the body’s own reaction to injuries, circulatory disorders or cell stress can no longer be “translated” into countermeasures as quickly. Also, the supply of oxygen and nutrients slows down, as does the removal of metabolic products.
Active ingredients can be used that stimulate these skin functions. There are very many of them: from hyaluronic acid to algae, from pomegranate extracts to stem cells produced in the laboratory.
Conclusion: skin aging is accelerated by our lifestyle.
Daily UV-protection, sufficient fluids, exercise and a healthy diet are essential for anti-aging. However, some signs of the times can be softened with cosmetics. Hyaluronic acid is particularly suitable for this, but other active ingredients with cell-renewing properties are also essential.