"With skin-identical ingredients." This sentence is found on more and more skincare products today. It sounds scientific and trustworthy, and gives the impression that a product is particularly gentle on the skin.
But what does skin-identical actually mean? And is skin-identical cosmetics automatically better? The short answer is: Skin-identical describes the structure of an ingredient, not automatically its effectiveness.
What does skin-identical mean?
A skin-identical ingredient has the same chemical structure as a substance that occurs naturally in our skin. It can, for example, be produced synthetically or biotechnologically, or also occur in plant-based ingredients. What matters is not its origin, but its chemical identity with the natural counterpart.
It is important to distinguish between skin-identical and skin-like ingredients: A skin-like substance has certain similarities with substances native to the skin, but does not necessarily correspond to them chemically.
Why is this interesting?
Our skin has a sophisticated protective barrier. It consists of skin cells and a mixture of various lipids (fats) as well as natural moisturizing factors (NMF).
These structures and substances help to regulate the skin's water balance and protect it from external influences.
Skincare products can support the skin barrier by, for example, binding moisture or providing suitable lipids. Ingredients that also occur naturally in the skin are therefore particularly interesting for the care of dry and sensitive skin. However: Not only skin identity determines the effect, but also concentration, formulation, and the individual needs of the skin.
Examples of skin-identical ingredients
Some of the best-known skin-identical substances are:
Ceramides
Ceramides are among the most important lipids of the skin barrier. Together with cholesterol and free fatty acids, they contribute to the structure and stability of the lipid matrix between the skin cells. They help to retain moisture in the skin and stabilize the natural protective layer.
Cholesterol
Cholesterol is also a natural component of the skin barrier. In suitable formulations, cholesterol can help to support the skin barrier. What matters here is the interplay of the various lipids.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in our body, including the skin. It has the ability to bind large amounts of water and thus contributes to good hydration. The hyaluronic acid used in cosmetics is now mostly produced biotechnologically, but corresponds to the natural structure.
Urea (Carbamide)
Urea is a component of the so-called Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF), i.e., the natural moisturizing factors of the skin.
It supports water retention and is therefore frequently used in skincare products for dry skin.
Squalane - skin-like
Squalane resembles the natural skin lipid squalene. Since squalene itself oxidizes easily, the more stable form squalane is usually used in cosmetics, which can be obtained from, for example, olives. It supports skin care without leaving a heavy greasy film.
Are plant-based lipids skin-identical?
Plant oils are complex mixtures of various lipids. They contain, among other things, fatty acids that also occur naturally in the skin. One example is linoleic acid, which plays an important role in the skin barrier.
However, this does not mean that a plant oil as a whole is skin-identical. Its composition differs from the lipid matrix of human skin.
Does skin-identical automatically mean better?
Not necessarily. A skin-identical ingredient can have many advantages:
- often good tolerance,
- support of the skin barrier,
- a useful supplement for dry or sensitive skin.
However, this does not mean that every non-skin-identical ingredient is automatically unsuitable. Many plant oils, antioxidants, or vitamins are also valuable components of modern skincare, although they are not skin-identical. What matters is always the overall formulation.
Why skin-identical ingredients are particularly interesting for dry skin
With increasing age, the skin changes. It produces fewer lipids and loses moisture more quickly. This makes the skin barrier more vulnerable. This is exactly where skin-identical ingredients can be useful, because they align skincare with natural skin functions. They do not replace the body's own skin barrier, but can effectively support it.
Skin-identical is not a quality promise
A common misconception is:
"If something is skin-identical, the product must be particularly high-quality." Unfortunately, it is not that simple. The term initially only says something about the individual ingredient. Whether a product works well depends on many other factors:
- the concentration,
- the combination of ingredients,
- the stability of the formulation
- and, of course, whether the product suits the needs of the skin.
That is why it is always worth looking at the entire recipe, not just a single term on the packaging.
Healthy Aging means: Supporting the skin
The idea behind skin-identical ingredients fits well with the concept of Healthy Aging: The skin should be supported in its natural functions and cared for according to its individual needs.
At hyapur® Berlin, hydration and needs-based skincare are among the main focuses. Hyaluronic serums can help to supply the skin with moisture. Plant-based skincare concepts, such as those associated with the GREEN Series, can also contribute to a balanced skincare routine, depending on their composition.
It is important to consider the properties of the respective ingredients in a differentiated way. Plant origin, skin identity, and skincare effect are different characteristics that are not automatically interchangeable.
Especially with Healthy Aging, skincare that supports the skin in the long term and suits its individual needs is essential.
